Onions! Yes, onions. Onions deserve some love. The farm has had onions since the middle of July. Since then they have cured and been in storage, providing a local option for soups and salads and basically anything else you want to eat.
The column shows how onions can provide the acidic bite to a salad and how they can coaxed into sweetness to be the comfort on a cold day.
The raw onion in a salad is inspired by Dan Compton, my chef at Vie in Chicago. His use of raw onion (and restrained, but regular, use of dill) are two hallmarks of his food.
The slow-cooked onion is from Nigel Slater, author of Tender. He refers to a baked onion as one of his favorite cold weather, comfort meals. I changed the technique a bit from his description but the idea was his.